I’m a sucker for some spooky shit. And if anyone knows how to get real goddamn spooky in October it’s Salt & Straw. Ice cream with blood and bugs has become standard affair for them, along with their ode to trick-or-treating classic The Great Candycopia. But they usually save their pumpkin flexing for Thanksgiving, and this year they’ve gifted us a new squashy delight ahead of the holiday’s. Mummy’s Pumpkin Spiced Potion is a vegan coconut based frozen dessert with dried pumpkin Pyschocandy tea from August Tea and candied pumpkin bits.
In terms of texture this mummified concoction is an absolute masterpiece. It has a richness and a depth to it that surpasses most grocery brand dairy-based ice creams and even by Salt & Straw’s very high standards this is impressive. The combination of pumpkin, butternut squash, and coconut is incredibly lush with immaculate smoothness that is quite frank(enstein)ly perfect. I’m not sure what the ratio of the three ingredients are to make the base, or if there’s even pumpkin puree to go along with the butternut squash, but it’s brilliantly executed and is up there with the best I’ve ever had.
As is typical with a lot of S&S offerings, the flavor isn’t exactly what you would expect. They say it’s their take on a pumpkin spice latte, but when compared to what that profile usually brings, this couldn’t be farther away from a PSL. There is no coffee to be found, and actually, no cinnamon either. The taste is very vanilla-forward with undercurrents of coconut from the cream and some slightly floral tea notes. I guess mummies are more of tea guys than coffee drinkers, because this pint eats like a sweet vanilla pumpkin tea, not too far off from something you might find in a Boba shop. As a straight up cinnamon-fiend this puzzled me at first, but I actually really appreciate how refreshing and different it is.
The lone mix-in are the candied pumpkin bits which are small but effective in bringing a soft chew and nice pop of color to the experience. They don’t have the impact of a graham or crust like you might find in other company’s versions of the autumn classic but they’re good and I appreciate their overall impact. Like most pumpkin ice cream’s without another dominant element involved this is a great super satisfying treat but it’s not a pint-crusher by any means. It’s the kind of flavor you have a couple spoonfuls of and put back in the freezer, every time it’s enjoyable, and this one is especially unique; but the experience is fairly one noted which prevents the spider-like digging spiral of more dense ice cream’s.
Found at: Salt & Straw ($11.00)