Happy summer! Yes, despite the fact that s’mores flavored products have already been circling about for months and rumors of new pumpkin spice treats are already surfacing, today marks the actual first day of the longest and warmest days of the year. While I do appreciate a nice long evening, summer is one of my least favorite times of the year. It’s hot, there’s no basketball, and cinnamon is so far on the back burner from the holiday’s I start to have withdrawals. That being said, it’s still a marvelous time to be alive, especially because graham crackers are everywhere, including in Dreyer’s Limited Edition S’mores, which combines toasted marshmallow and chocolate light ice creams swirled together with a graham cracker ribbon, mini marshmallows, and chocolaty chips.
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As a bonafide ice cream lover I don’t pay too much attention to Dreyer’s. I’ve had my fair share of their products over the span of my life, but the end result is usually pretty lackluster, like last years Pumpkin Spice Latte, so I don’t feel a need to seek out their newest releases. That being said, sometimes packaging can jump out at me so convincingly as I slowly peruse the frozen aisle that I can’t help but stop; as was the case with the recently re-branded Kit Kat ice cream. In 2016 Dreyer’s released a line of candy bar themed cream’s including 100 Grand, Baby Ruth, and, you guessed it, Kit Kat. They’ve changed the packaging to more closely mimic the wrapper of a candy bar, and although the container doesn’t explicitly state this, they also changed the base from their normal higher fat Grand style to the lighter variety usually reserved for Slow Churned. The new Kit Kat ice cream combines chocolate light ice cream with a wafer swirl and pieces of Kit Kat candy.
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I’ve always loved Sno Balls. Starting at a very young age I held it down for team coconut, and those squishy mounds of jiggly marshmallow and cream-filled chocolate cake always got my chubby heart fluttering with joy. Hell, I even like those red raspberry coconut Zingers that everyone else on earth seems to hate. Needless to say, if there’s anything that could make Sno Balls better (aside from seasonal coloring, of course), it would be returning them to the icy tundra from which they came and immersing them in a vat of frozen creamy dairy. Hostess and Nestle have once again combined forces to make all of our dreams come true with Sno Balls ice cream, which combines a marshmallow flavored ice cream with chocolate cake pieces and a whipped coconut swirl. Are you dead yet? Let’s eat.
The ice cream is smooth and fluffy with a wonderfully decadent and addictive marshmallow texture that more closely mimics the ‘mallow than anything I’ve had not straight out of a Jet Puffed package. There’s that undercurrent of sweet round vanilla that every so often crosses paths with a slightly gritty pink coconut swirl that is spot on the outside of Sno Balls. It reminds me so much of eating the Hostess classic that I can almost feel the distinct squish of biting into one right out of the shiny cellophane. Even though there isn’t tons of the swirl, I like how much they put in there because the coconut intensity weaves in and out of bites without becoming too dominant or taking over the entire profile.
The cake pieces are dark with a brownie-like density and a distinctly deep cocoa flavor that stands out strong against the mellow marshmallow backdrop. It’s not the highest quality mix in, but once again it stays true to the feeling and flavor of the treat that it aims to emulate. Much like the Twinkies ice cream, the pieces are on the smaller side but there’s enough sprinkled throughout that chocolate keeps a constant presence and contributes greatly to the overall flavor.
This ice cream does a tremendous job of putting a cold and melty twist on eating Sno Balls. The marriage of marshmallow, coconut, and chocolate cake works really well as an ice cream that transcends the novelty appeal into something that is legitimately enjoyable and wouldn’t seem out of place at all in a higher end scoop shop. The airier, lower milk fat type of base that Dreyers
uses works much better than a denser more premium ice cream for bringing home that true marshmallow texture that the Sno Balls experience needs. Eat this and be happy.