REVIEW: Vice Cream’s Higher Grounds

We all like to get a little high. My favorite way to start the day is a nice caffeine buzz, and the best way to end that day is with a nice creamy scoop. While every day doesn’t end with ice cream, you betcha every morning breaks with a steaming cup of the blackest of the black, so it should be no surprise that fusing these two joys of life seems nearly as common as chocolate, vanilla, and caramel. Fueling all of our favorite crutches, Vice have come through with Higher Grounds, which combines a dark roast coffee ice cream with a mocha fudge swirl, chocolate cookie crumbles, and espresso pillows.

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This is a really great coffee ice cream. It’s bursting with dark and bold coffee flavor and just enough sweetness to keep it in the realm of sugary desserts. The bittersweet intensity is rounded out beautifully by a perfectly smooth and dense creamy texture that finishes with pure lush dairy notes. It’s by far the best base I’ve had from Vice and one of the better coffee flavored ones I’ve had from the grocery store in general.

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The element of this flavor I was the most curious about are the “espresso pillows” and it turns out that’s just a really cute name for chocolate covered espresso beans. The pillows are bold and crunchy with a strong coffee bean flavor that cuts through the intense coffee presence of the ice cream for a real coffee lovers treat. The bittersweet chocolate coating adds a touch of sweetness to the dark party and I really love chomping on beans intermittently during this caffeine-fueled cream dream.

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It’s hard to tell how much coffee flavor is in the mocha swirl among all the other coffee-forward elements but it’s syrupy and adds a nice different texture to the overall experience. In an ideal world it might be a little thicker to live up to the “fudge” name, but as it stands with its Hershey’s syrup swagger it’s perfectly acceptable and does its job well.

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The cookie crumbles are the least interesting part of the mix, but also the only one without coffee so they’re a pretty necessary component. They’re little crunchy balls that remind me of a chocolate topping that would come with a cookie-themed yogurt, and I don’t dislike them but don’t really love them either. I would have really enjoyed some Oreo’s or more varied pieces of cookie, but the constant presence of the crunchy bits brings a nice toothiness to the pint that holds up.

Higher Grounds isn’t reinventing the wheel by any means but it’s a damn fine coffee ice cream for those who really like their flavors big and bold. Super creamy, super potent, this pint is a winner.

Rating: 8/10

Found at: Safeway ($4.99)

REVIEW: Tillamook’s Speculoos Cookie Caramel

Now that it’s officially the last week of July it’s time to get those spice-engines-a-revvin’. Sure, there’s bound to be some more beautiful berries in my future, but from August through December it’s a lock for my tastebuds to get warm and cuddly. Aside from the ever-prominent pumpkin spice and gingerbread, nothing screams spicy splendor quite like speculoos, and when you put that flavor into an ice cream? Real summer finale fireworks potential. Tillamook’s Speculoos Cookie Caramel combines a speculoos cookie butter ice cream with cinnamon spiced cookie crumbles and caramel.

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REVIEW: Blue Bunny’s PB ‘N Cones

There are little things in life that shouldn’t make me as happy as they do but I can’t deny the legitimate excitement they bring me. Finding my first pint of Blue Bunny is one such thing, and I am gleaming. Ice cream is at the top of my “I could eat this forever” pyramid, but I love variety, and as such, I prefer pints over all other sizes of larger containers. Blue Bunny usually comes in much bigger tubs, and since I barely get a chance to come across BB in San Francisco anyway, I’ll take whatever I can get. But a pint? Of Blue Bunny? This is amazing. PB ‘N Cones combines vanilla ice cream with peanut butter swirls and dipped cone pieces.

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The vanilla ice cream is exceptionally smooth and creamy with a beautiful light and refreshing mouthfeel. Not light in a bad, fluffy, low calorie kind of way, but light on the tongue like a perfect soft serve with more richness. The vanilla flavor is subdued but present with a classic sweetness that’s just right for putting back in joy without blinking an eye.

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The chocolate covered cone pieces are executed flawlessly. They’ve kept all of their crunch and pop through the smooth dairy with a wonderful brown sugar flavor accented by creamy milk chocolate. Waffle cones are one of the most iconic ice cream accompaniments, and their success being a mix-in relies almost exclusively on their execution. With no soggy-ness in sight Blue Bunny really nailed it.

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Peanut butter will always be a welcome addition to any pint in my freezer and that rule of thumb is no different here. The swirl is present but not dominant with a nice saltiness that cuts through all the other predominantly sweet components. It isn’t the saltiest peanut butter swirl I’ve had but brings the necessary contrast and wonderful fatty nutty notes that make it one of the greatest things ever. Since I’m such a fiend I wouldn’t mind a little more ribbon action, but it weaves in and out of bites pleasantly, perfectly tempered and creamy without seizing up.

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Once again Blue Bunny have shown that they are the kings of the lower calorie ice cream game. No, it’s not light ice cream, but it’s a far cry from the 300 calorie per serving offerings from Ben & Jerry’s and Haagen-Dazs; and eating BB is just as enjoyable as the more fattening options with lotsa fun factor to boot. PB ‘N Cones doesn’t reinvent the wheel when it comes to overall flavor profile, but it delivers exactly what it promises and makes me a real happy bunny, er…boy.

Rating: 7.5/10

Found at: Grocery Outlet ($1.99)

REVIEW: Baskin Robbins Oreo ‘N Cake

Baskin Robbins have been really slackin’ off lately. I made it my mission when I started the skillet to review every Flavor of the Month and be the ultimate go-to for anyone curious about BR’s creations. You may have noticed the last two months have been silent on this site for the 31 flavored brand, and that’s not because of personal fatigue, but because of BR’s rare back to back months of repeats. May brought back the solid Mom’s Makin’ Cookies and last month saw a second dip of Caramel Macchiato. I was sure that for July, National Ice Cream Month, and a month that has become synonymous with epic Oreo collabs, would yield a new scoop for me to dig into. Nope. It’s back to back to back repeats, but there is a caveat with this month’s call back.

July 2018 see’s the return of Oreo ‘N Cake, a flavor that proceeded the birth of the skillet and one that I really enjoyed when it came out in 2015. In fact, I liked it so much that during that hot July three years ago I scooped it three times, and according to BR’s website, this is their most popular Flavor of the Month of all time. Oreo ‘N Cake combines a cake flavored ice cream with Oreo cookie pieces and a chocolate cake batter ribbon.

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REVIEW: Tillamook’s Sea Salt & Honeycomb Toffee

Happy National Ice Cream Month! Or more specifically, happy week-of National Ice Cream Day! As has become a mini tradition on this site, the week of the day that celebrates one of the finest culinary delights of all time will be fully dedicated to nothing but ice cream. I realize over the last year there have been many weeks where I only posted about ice cream, but that was an accident and more reflects what I was eating than what we should be celebrating. To kick off the festivities we’re digging into a new flavor from Tillamook – one of the most underrated fine dairy churners on the West Coast now in many grocery stores including Target. Sea Salt & Honeycomb Toffee combines a honey custard with crunchy pieces of crunchy honeycomb toffee and a touch of sea salt.

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REVIEW: Ample Hills 20/20 The Scoop

Journalism is important. And you know what? So is really great ice cream. As a young skillet I was Editor-in-Chief of my high school newspaper and then a staff writer at my junior college with intentions to major in the craft before swerving and landing on creative writing. Being a person that spent years of his life delving deep into the world of investigative reporting, and now spends way too many hours hunting for the most premium pints in the game, a collaboration between ABC’s 20/20 TV show and New York’s Ample Hills was made for a weird creamy word nerd like myself. To celebrate 50 years of 50/50 Ample Hills have given churn birth to The Scoop, which pairs a marshmallow ice cream with chunks of blue velvet cake.

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REVIEW: Dreyer’s/Edy’s Limited Edition S’mores

Happy summer! Yes, despite the fact that s’mores flavored products have already been circling about for months and rumors of new pumpkin spice treats are already surfacing, today marks the actual first day of the longest and warmest days of the year. While I do appreciate a nice long evening, summer is one of my least favorite times of the year. It’s hot, there’s no basketball, and cinnamon is so far on the back burner from the holiday’s I start to have withdrawals. That being said, it’s still a marvelous time to be alive, especially because graham crackers are everywhere, including in Dreyer’s Limited Edition S’mores, which combines toasted marshmallow and chocolate light ice creams swirled together with a graham cracker ribbon, mini marshmallows, and chocolaty chips.

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REVIEW: Coolhaus Milkshake & Fries

Hello, Mr. Sweet & Salty checking in. Usually I can look at a list of ingredients on a product and figure out the intended profile for myself. Habanero chips are gonna be spicy. Blue cheese flavored pretzels are gonna be funky. Chocolate covered Oreo’s are gonna be sweet. Yet sometimes, even when we know what we’re getting into, a bag of chips will push the narrative and boldy state SPICY! As common as that may be with with savory snacks, I don’t know that I’ve ever seen it with ice cream. That all changed with one of the newest flavors from Coohaus, which proudly proclaims, quite literally in a speech bubble, that this pint is in fact “sweet & salty!” Milkshake & Fries combines salted Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream with shoestring french fries and milk chocolate malt balls.

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REVIEW: Ben & Jerry’s Special Stash It’s…Ice Cream

Ben & Jerry’s have once again opened their coveted Special Stash to unleash a rare and limited edition pint only available at scoop shops and online. Much like the first release, Marshmallow Moon, which was one of the alternate ideas for Jimmy Fallon’s signature flavor, It’s…Ice Cream is one of the combinations originally considered for the now infamous and hugely popular Phish Food. Unlike its battle-winning older sibling, which swirls together caramel and marshmallow in the murky depths of double chocolate, this flavor gets a little more of a balanced lift from caramel malt ice cream with almond toffee pieces, fudge fish and a caramel swirl.

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This pint is a lot like an epic medley in the middle of a four hour Phish concert – a bunch of elements I’ve already had and enjoyed in separate instances all fusing together to create a new unique experience. We’ve got the base from Keep Caramel and Cookie On, the fish and caramel swirl from Phish Food, and some almond toffee that reminds me a lot of the terrific brittle in the Non-Dairy Caramel Almond Brittle.

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I feel pretty much the same about the base here as I did in Keep Caramel, which has a solid malty funkiness and subdued sweetness compared to a lot of other caramel bases. Ben & Jerry’s don’t make the best caramel ice cream’s but they tend to surround them with things that make them work well. Cinnamon Buns is a prime example of an ice cream that’s just okay at its core but terrific taken as a whole. My favorite B&J’s caramel base is the coffee caramel in One Sweet World, and while this base isn’t as exciting, I’m getting Phish-induced flashbacks to one of my favorite Limited Batches of the last few years, and that’s a very good thing.

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The ample pools of sweet syrupy caramel all throughout the pint help elevate the base and bring out the malty funk even more, achieving a great balance of overall sweetness. There are moments throughout digging that a glob of caramel takes up my entire spoon, and I will never tire of that simple pleasure. The chocolate fish continue my theory that B&J’s chocolate is so much better in shapes than in chunks and I love their fudgey density and firm snap. Plus, it’s a helluva lot of fun popping open a pint that looks like there are fish swimming in a sea of caramel-colored delight.

The real game changer in this pint are the wonderful pieces of almond toffee, which chomp and crunch with a bold buttery flavor and sparks of salt that help temper the caramel for that lovely tandem of sweet and salty I simply can’t get enough of. The pieces are different than the chocolate covered variety in Vanilla Toffee Bar Crunch (formerly Heath) and really provide a great nutty character that brings the depth and necessary variety to bites that really set the flavor apart.

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With both of the first two entries into the elusive Special Stash collection being rejects of already existing flavors, I’m pretty intrigued to see where this line will go next. While I found Jimmy Fallon’s Marshmallow Moon to be a pretty inferior option to the chosen Tonight Dough, when it comes to this versus Phish Food it’s a much tougher debate. There’s no doubt that this one is more unique and satisfies my sweet and salty craving’s, but there’s nothing quite like diving into that dark swirly abyss of the classic Phish Food. Although it’s not as easy to get as some of the great core flavors, this one is worth the extra trip or online order, and I’d recommend grabbing an extra one to toss in your stash for a repeat scoop.

Rating: 8.5/10

Found at: Ben & Jerry’s ($6.25)

REVIEW: Vice Cream’s L’Orange A Trois

Outside of the beloved Creamsicle, citrus doesn’t get a whole lotta love in the dairy game. Sure, there are lemon sorbet’s for days, but that combination of sweet sweet dairy and acidic punch is far less common than it should be. None of the big players in the game like Ben & Jerry’s or Haagen-Dazs ever toy with that pairing, and it’s kind of a shame. Even more uncommon is the magical combination of chocolate and citrus, which seems to be reserved for the holiday’s and those weird little jelly sticks you can buy at Trader Joe’s and other craft candy stores. It’s a combo that really works, pairing bitter and sweet and tart in a way that tickles every part of my tongue. When I came across a flavor from Vice that combines all of these elements into one during the peak of spring I couldn’t help but get pumped. L’Orange A Trois combines vanilla ice cream with an orange ripple and dark, milk, and white chocolate chunks.

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